What Would You Do - 6th street

Tournament - Razz - Level III (75/150), Ante 10, Bring-In 20

Seat 2: 1,680
Seat 3: 3,190
Seat 4: 1,505
Seat 5: 2,560
Seat 6: 2,635
Seat 7: 3,455
Seat 8: 2,025

3rd Street - (1.07 SB)

Seat 2: xx xx 3:___folds
Seat 3: 5: 2: Q:___calls
Seat 4: xx xx T:___folds
Seat 5: xx xx K:___brings-in
Seat 6: xx xx 3:___folds
Seat 7: A: 2: 6:___calls
Seat 8: xx xx 7:___calls

These low buy-in tournaments seem to have picked up a convention of limping any Bww hand and then betting the best-looking board on 4th. This is often common practice at low limit cash Razz. It's a sort of loose/passive player pact. And it can be difficult to play profitably against if you complete with three good because they tend to fold 3rd if anyone completes and you only get action from the best hands. The other option is a risky limp with a big hand. This is a good play, of course, when you have a very big hand, but in this case, while Seat 7s hand is low, it is also EP without a single pair card.

So, what's your choice, here? It's early in a tournament, and this hand is liable to get a few of callers. Seat 7 has a some extra chips to risk, and lots of callers could mean a big payoff, but also means less chance to win.

I'm completing-in. If they all fold I'll be ok with that. What I'd like is to be HU. There is another issue with limping here with a hand that has no pair cards in a game where people bet 4th with a brick or pair in the hole: you can't get folds when you want them. And with no pair cards, Seat 7 is at increased risk for a 4th street that looks like (A2)62.

The other issue is: do we think Seat 3 is an idiot? Not really. I wouldn't limp behind here, but it's not that unreasonable at this stage of a trny in this kind of game where people limp their brick hands by default.

4th Street - (2.13 SB)

Seat 3: 5: 2: Q: T:___calls
Seat 5: xx xx K: 3:___folds
Seat 7: A: 2: 6: J:___bets
Seat 8: xx xx 7: K:___folds

But now we really think Seat 3 is a moron, right? Not really. If the convention is limp Bww hands and the best board bets on 4th, then Seat 3 can easily have the best three-card hand here. If Seat 7 limped a pair, or any card J or higher, he could be far ahead. Note that Seat 8 folded what we can assume was a Bw7K, Seat 3 will expect the BI to fold, he's in the hand incidentally, so calling a SB here is justifiable. And, he gets to advertise his own two wheel cards.

5th Street - (2.07 BB)

Seat 3: 5: 2: Q: T: 8:___bets
Seat 7: A: 2: 6: J: 6:___calls

Now Seat 7 has slow-played himself to being a 37% dog to Seat 3s 63% favorite. He can't think that 8 paired his opponent, but he is getting 3-1 on the call, so, it's worth the BB to see if he can catch a better draw. I'm not sure any of that was in his mind when he called, I'm leaning more toward a "I can't believe this idiot will take this pot from me" kinda call.

Sixth Street

I'm putting each action that did happen separately here, so you can put yourself in both positions and decide what you'd do. The hand with the percentages on 6th street is in today's post on the forum here.

6th Street - (4.07 BB)

Seat 3: 5: 2: Q: T: 8: A:___?
Seat 7: A: 2: 6: J: 6: 7:___

6th Street - (4.07 BB)

Seat 3: 5: 2: Q: T: 8: A:___bets
Seat 7: A: 2: 6: J: 6: 7:___?


6th Street - (4.07 BB)

Seat 3: 5: 2: Q: T: 8: A:___bets___?
Seat 7: A: 2: 6: J: 6: 7:___raises

I posted the hand really, not for the 6th street question, but for the 3rd street one. How would the whole hand play out with different actions on 3rd?

Every Mistake a Newbie Can Make

I'm not Seat 6 here, I wasn't at the table. Some players will make an argument in favor of the 5th street bet here. I say: ew.

[b]Razz[/b] ($0.04/$0.08), Ante $0.01, Bring-In $0.02 ([url=http://www.andyblackwood.com/converter.html]converter[/url])

[b]3rd Street[/b] - (1.75 SB)

Seat 1: xx xx 3:___folds
Seat 2: xx xx A:___folds
Seat 3: xx xx K:___[b]brings-in[/b]
Seat 4: xx xx 5:___calls
Seat 5: xx xx T:___calls
Seat 6: (5: 7:) 3:___calls
Seat 7: xx xx 8:___folds

He has two limps behind him, one of them has an open brick and he has a very nice hand, albeit a 75 but with two pair cards. At this point, especially with the two wheels behind him, he has to know mathematically he is a big favorite against the Ten and that at this limit with this action, the 5 is probably bricking, also. So, he easily has the best hand of those in, he should try and get as much money from the weak hands as possible and try to keep the others from limping behind with their marginal hands. At the very least, maybe one will raise and the BI and other baby will fold, maybe the T will also. This is the time to push for so many reasons.

He limped behind. The worst possible thing he could do is limp behind.

The guy sat down with $100 at .04/.08. Possibly he did this to be intimidating. But really it just shows the other players he is not a regular and possibly has never played Razz before since he is playing at the lowest possible limit even though he is obviously bankrolled for at least .10/.20. Did he think at all before he limped, mathematically or otherwise? The hand is nice but rough, you want to rep strength, showing a 3, at least represent better cards. You want fewer callers, you want more dead money, YOU WANT TO COMPLETE - reraise if someone raises.

This is beyond dreadful.


[b]4th Street[/b] - (3.75 SB)

Seat 3: xx xx K:: 7:___bets
Seat 4: xx xx 5: J:___calls
Seat 5: xx xx T: A:___calls
Seat 6: (5: 7:) 3: 6:___[b]checks[/b]___calls

HE CHECK/CALLED!

HE CHECK/CALLED WITH THE BEST HAND!!!

He did not check/raise, he simply announced to the rest of the players that he had a brick in the hole, also. He doesn't. But if this guy thought he was slow-playing, wow what a bad bad rough draw to do it with. He napalmed his last possible chance for some fold equity. he did that on 3rd, but maybe, possibly if he bet someone might raise and he could reraise and sell a slow-play of something big. Now, he's riding that donkey to the river.

[b]5th Street[/b] - (3.88 BB)

Seat 3: xx xx K: 7: K:___calls
Seat 4: xx xx 5: J: 7:___[b]checks[/b]___calls
Seat 5: xx xx T: A: T:___checks___calls
Seat 6: 5: 7: 3: 6: Q:___bets

Here he bets. Here, where no one is folding because they all think he has a three-card hand. Is he a mathematical favorite here? Probably. (I say "probably" because while we can look ahead at the answer, at this limit passive players often check/call along bigger hands unless they are positive they are ahead. Seat 4 can easily be drawing to a better 7 and only have checked because we are showing a 6 draw.) Is his hand good enough in this game with this brick-heavy board to play this style? No, it really isn't. This is the perfect spot to take a free card, because this hand is so rough, any of these three other players can vault right into the equity lead on 6th.

Think about 6th street here. If one of them does catch good, and Seat 6 makes his 7, they won't know it. He'll be much farther ahead, if he bets he might easily get raised. A great thing. And if he bricks out on 6th, and one or two of them don't, he's going to be behind and glad he only has to put in that one bet to see the river.

He gets three BBs on 5th when he is ahead with two cards to come in a very precarious position where we've seen so many bricks you can pretty much predict some babies are going to hit the board. Seat 3 was aggro enough on 4th to be able to count on him if he hits for some action on 6th if it's desired.

[b]6th Street[/b] - (7.88 BB)

Seat 3: xx xx K: 7: K: A:___raises
Seat 4: xx xx 5: J: 7: A:___[b]bets[/b]___calls
Seat 5: xx xx T: A: T: J:___folds
Seat 6: (5: 7:) 3: 6: Q: K:___calls___calls

Seat 4 makes his play. It's not a bad one. He expects Seats 5 and 6 to fold and hopes the BI paired that ace and he can pick up the pot. Bad timing. Now - this is the perfect example of why I say you have to play every single street on 3rd. Imagine how this would go if Seat 6 had shown some early strength? The BI might not be here at all, Seat 4 wouldn't make this move, and we aren't putting in two bets when it looks like we're now behind and hoping for luck since we showed no skill at all.

Of course, showing early strength means that Seat 4 is probably folding 5th, anyway.

[b]River[/b] - (13.88 BB)

Seat 3: xx xx K: 7: K: A: xx___bets $0.04 and is all-in
Seat 4: xx xx 5: J: 7: A: xx___[b]checks[/b]___calls
Seat 6: (5: 7:) 3: 6: Q: K: 8___checks___calls

[b]Total pot:[/b] (15.38 BB)

*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot $1.23 | Rake $0.05

Seat 3: showed [4d 8s Ks 7d Kc Ah 5d] and won ($1.18) with Lo: 8,7,5,4,A
Seat 4: mucked [6d Ts 5c Jc 7c Ac 9d]
Seat 6: showed [5s 7h 3h 6s Qh Kh 8d] and lost with Lo: 8,7,6,5,3

This is Razz. And you need a hell of a lot more than math to win. You need play.

Back Online

The blog was down for a while as I did some reassessment. I was going to take the material offline, I figured now that I don't write for 2+2 probably anyone who wanted to read the articles, probably already had. And I am putting a lot of my time into just playing or into a different kind of writing.

Then I found out how many places have links here. There are links on forums in languages I don't even recognize. Which is pretty humbling. But I still have enough ego to believe I wrote some of the best beginner material on Razz as well as some of the more accessible advanced strategy and if there are still people reading, I think the material is still useful. So I redesigned instead and here we still are.

My question for myself is: where to go from here? In my mind, if you aren't moving forward you are definitely sliding back. As I look at my own game, I see I have gotten a bit sloppy. So I'm going back to .04/.08 for a while in order to teach myself discipline. I think one of the big leaks in limit games is calling too many rivers because the pot is almost always offering you the correct odds. I, personally, think odds alone is a lousy reason to stick another BB into the pot.

So, I'm going to work on that for myself and if I have any epiphanies, I'll post them here.

What's also true is that I usually answer email questions by just sending links to something already written. But I think I'll see if I can come up with an FAQ that I can post in the forum and link from here. Maybe I should start using a "mailbag" tag - seems a bit hokey but still, it does get the point across, and then folks can just call up the basics.

OK, so, if I think of anything that might be useful about Razz, I'll let you know. As for the rest, it's autumn on New England and I'm on an upswing.

How can I ask for more?!

Hand Rating Basics

This is from an email I got the other day:

...I've been reading your articles about the Counting System... Of course I'm sure you're right, but I find it very tiring... ¿Is it not possible to use simpler guidelines, and hopefully in the long run more or less equally profitable, like counting dead/live/and dead/live door cards and (almost) no more? Quick guidelines like: '4 dead cards= fold' or '4 dead cards but 2 door cards out there=play" and maybe always entering de pot with a complete, trying to limit the field?

Of course, I know it's very important the other players' actions, but... I don't know, i'm looking for something simpler...

I kind of laughed because my system is just child's play next to something like the one Doctor Razz has over at Stox - but I did take two full articles explaining it and I think if you are new to Razz and try to put it into practice all at once it can be kind of daunting.

This thread is the essential chart and guidelines. At the bottom of the post it says:

You will find that if you just do the AV for a few sessions and then add in the RV calculations, it will be very fast and simple for you to get a hand rating to use to make 3rd street decisions.

This is still what I recommend, that you don't try to do the whole thing at once. If you are just counting the Absolute Card Values for a while, you soon won't need to count at all, you'll just know. There is a link to the 2+2 articles over on the right here, and you can find both the Razzmath articles that explain the system.

But I think the most important thing to address from the email is this: I know it's very important the other players' actions, but...

No "buts" - the other player's actions are how you count cards you cannot see.

Forget the hand rating system for a while and just think of the principles behind it's creation.

First: we win with the lowest 5 cards. Seems simple enough but that means we generally don't even enter a pot without three cards 8 or under.

Second: we still need two more low cards. So now we have to ask: what are the chances we're going to get them?

3rd Street - (0.80 SB)

Seat 1: xx xx 7:___folds
Seat 2: xx xx K:___brings-in___folds
Seat 3: xx xx 3:___folds
Seat 4: xx xx 7:___folds
Seat 5: xx xx 7:___raises___calls
Hero: 6: 4: 8:___calls___folds
Seat 7: xx xx J:___folds
Seat 8: xx xx 5:___raises

The huge mistake I made in this hand was ever calling in the first place. It was a pretty passive table and people were giving me a lot of space here which is why I did, but when there was a raise and a call behind me I had to figure my dead hand had decomposed completely. That 5 isn't raising on 3rd without two wheels in the hole, and Seat 5 was the original completer in EP so he has at least one, maybe two himself.

Here's one that was a bit more live, but with all the action, just how many babies could there be left for me to catch? (These two hands are in the Hand Rating thread if you want to see the rest of the streets - there wasn't much left for them to catch, either.)

3rd Street - (0.80 SB)

Seat 1: xx xx 6:___raises___raises
Seat 2: xx xx 4:___raises___calls
Seat 3: xx xx T:___folds
Hero: 4: 8: 7:___folds
Seat 5: xx xx T:___folds
Seat 6: xx xx K:___brings-in___folds
Seat 7: xx xx 7:___calls___raises___calls
Seat 8: xx xx T:___folds

So what's the point? That what your opponents' do on 3rd might be more important to pay attention to right now than some hand rating system. Because knowing that, the relative worth of you hand - IS a hand rating system. The numbers and methods I created are just a way of "quantifying common sense."

Screw the system, develop the common sense.

Yeah, I know it's my system, but unless you are into that sort of thing, and I do prefer mine to any other I've seen, it's more useful to understand the principles behind it than memorize the specifics of it.

Okay? The most important thing to know is that the value of your hand is relative - that what else is out there is as important as what's in your hand.

If you don't get the relative part, go to Absolute and Relative Hand Strength and read it.

If you are new to Razz, don't count unless it works for you right away. Just take some time, look and think. Ask yourself - what do they have? If they are giving you a lot of action and they have pair cards to you - use extreme caution; sometimes seeing pair cards is a bad thing!

You have (A2)3 and the line looks like this:

xxJ(BI) xx3 xxA xx9 xxJ xxA xxT (A2)3

Well, this is great, right? You have this huge hand! Until the first 3 completes, the Ace behind him raises and, after the 9 and the J fold, the next A reraises. What do you think they have? Seems pretty unlikely they all have A23, also. But it seems just as unlikely they are all playing rough 8s. That is they most likely have your cards. The 4s and 5s and 6s you'd love to catch, are for the most part going to be bound up in your opponents' hands. And yeah, you are going to cap 3rd street with them (maybe that first 3 will fold, you hope) and then you are going to hope you manage to eke out a win.

The upshot of all this is: if you have to skip something, skip the adding and subtracting, but never ever skip the part where you factor your opponents' actions on 3rd street into your thinking about your hand.

Starting from Scratch or "I'm Itchin' to Have a BR Again!"

It's September 1st and this was my goal to get some money online and start rebuilding a bankroll.


There's a thread over at 2p2 about John Robert Bellande admitting he lost his BR and is in building mode. Some of the comments made clear that people were very impressed he'd admit it. Those comments caused me to think that people don't understand how often that happens, why it can happen, and how it can happen to really good professional players.

There are a lot of reasons someone loses a poker BR. There's just ROR - that risk of ruin stat is in PT for a reason - because there is pretty much always that risk. I don't think Jean Robert is broke, as in "sleeping on someone's couch" poor - but he somehow lost his poker playing money.

Of course, horrendously bad downswings can decimate a bankroll, even if you are playing well. I don't think anyone in the world can play optimally during a very bad prolonged swing, but someone who is generally excellent can play well enough to be playing better than most of his competition.

There is horrendously bad BR management. You just never had a swing that bad, so you don't move down as quickly as you should, and then, some bad monkey-tilt gamblin' action can wipe you out. You can run very badly in tournaments where the buy-ins eat up your roll.

You can gamble it away on other games than poker, on sports betting or whatever.

You can snort it away or smoke it away or even drink it away given enough time.

You can make a huge real estate investment with the bulk of it, knowing that "sure thing" will pay off huge (unless there is a worldwide recession).

There is also the possibility that you must commit one of Poker's few mortal sins: you have to spend your bankroll on something else.

Especially during a worldwide recession, people who aren't professional poker players have to sometimes use that money for more basic needs. And even a pro, faced with say some staggering and sudden medical crisis not covered by insurance, might use his poker money to elsewhere.

I don't think JRB ever lost every poker penny he had, I think he is just playing at a limit ridiculously low for him.

Whatever happened to him, or you or me, we all often have to start at the bottom. Sometimes we get stakers and that can be a good thing. Sometimes we just need to do the job ourselves.

That recession did make it's way to our house and it's been a good while since I had any significant money online. It took a while to get a few extra dollars together, and then I waited for a good reload opportunity at Stars which I figured would show up before the WCOOP. They didn't disappoint.

What a great deal - if you got in before August 14th, you can load up twice more and get the 50% bonus and each time have 6 months to work it off, from the date of the deposit.

I didn't have anything ion August 14th in any liquid form, but I did make a mini-deposit of $25 just to be able to later deposit bigger.

I had a nice run with that $, got it to a hair of $100 in less than 2 weeks playing microRazz.

But what comes up - seems to insist on coming down. Still - it made a nice base with the $12.50 bonus and a bit of cash game profit. So this month when things lightened up a bit around here, I managed to get a total of $300 online. $300.16, to be exact.

I'll be blogging it on my forum in this thread..Lis' Personal Bankroll Building and Other Stuff Blog

It's not a challenge, but it is something a lot of us need to do. Lazy summer days are gone, crisp autumn in the air.

Time to get to work.

STARS GIVING MICROS PARTIAL FPPs

Stars has started giving micro players partial FPPs so that we can ALL earn those bonuses. About time and thanks Stars.

ALSO - see Listening's Razz Forum for a breathtaking day-to-day - sorta - account of the All-New Stars-Pays-Micros-Partial-FPPs Bankroll Challenge - wherein I take my measly 40 bucks and work off my bonus only playing .10/.20 (to start) Razz!

Here is the Stars info from this page:

VPP are awarded differently at some PokerStars cash game tables. Tables offering this award structure include:

• ’1-on-1’ tables for all games
• Full Ring Limit tables up to 25c/50c
• Full Ring No-Limit tables up to 5c/10c
• All ‘6-max’ tables for the following games:
  • No Limit Hold’em
  • Pot Limit Hold’em
  • Pot Limit Omaha
  • Pot Limit Omaha Hi/Lo
  • Limit games up to 25c/50c

Over the coming weeks, all newly created tables of these types will use the new VPP award structure. During this transition, some old tables will continue to award VPP based on the Standard Tables award scheme.

VPPs at these tables are based on the total rake collected at the table, and the number of players dealt into the hand. Like in tournaments, at these tables VPPs are awarded at the rate of 5 VPPs for each $1.00 in rake collected. The total VPPs for that hand are then divided equally among the players who were dealt into that hand. Fractional VPPs will be awarded in hundredths. Please see these examples:

EXAMPLE 1: In a $3/$6 ‘6 max’ No Limit Hold’em game, six players are dealt in, and the rake is $3.00. With $3.00 rake, 15 total VPPs are awarded. Each of the six players dealt into the hand would receive 2.50 VPPs.

EXAMPLE 2: In that same $3/$6 ‘6 max’ No Limit Hold’em game, five players are dealt in and the rake is $2.00. With $2.00 rake, 10 total VPPs are awarded. Each of the five players dealt into the hand would receive 2.00 VPPs.

EXAMPLE 3: In that same $3/$6 ‘6 max’ No Limit Hold’em game, three players are dealt in and the rake is $1.00. With $1.00 rake, 5 total VPPs are awarded. Each of the three players dealt into the hand would receive 1.67 VPPs.

EXAMPLE 4: In a $0.25/$0.50 ‘6 max’ No Limit Hold’em game, with six players dealt in, if the pot size is $6.00, the rake would be $0.30. With $0.30 rake, 1.5 VPP would be awarded. Each of the six players dealt into the hand would receive 0.25 VPPs.

Stars seem to be getting better and better - I note this A.M. at 10:30 when I sign on, there are already three 5/10 Razz tables going and a bunch lower. Later, when I looked at the Full Tilt site, they had about 56k players when Stars had 173k players.

For a long time I couldn't download FT at all, last night I thought I'd try one last time. Hey! It worked, and in about two minutes. 'Course, they want me to download some Adobe file to get the last hand screen to open - WTF?

So, today I think, as I have no money on FT and would never deposit there, that I'll play a few of the freerolls. Guess what? They already have "software update" to download, which never works from the screen on my computer. I have to go to the site and reload the whole thing - so OK, I go to do that and---IT'S GOING TO TAKE 14 MINUTES.

No, nope, nada, it is not. I don't need FT that badly - or at all.

Off to Ultimate Bet, I go, after my morning play at Stars: good cash, busted OTM my trny. Since I made more money at the cash table than I spent buying-in I felt ok - sometimes there is just no way to get there.

Next time. Play happy, people.

The Physics of Poker: How Forum Advice can Hurt Your Game

I've been posting on poker forums since I started learning the game and have certainly been helped a great deal by the advice I got there. And I hope to be helped as much in the future. What is also true, however, is that forums can also hurt your game, and dependence on the advice from the regulars, can lead you away from your optimal winning strategy. To understand how that can happen, we have to know what poker and light have in common.

Particle/Wave Theory:

It's well-known that light acts as both wave and particle. What is lesser-known, is that light only acts as a particle when we are observing it. That is, we change the thing we study by the fact that we are studying it. (This is true in every form of science dealing with the natural world.) Think of an ocean wave: you don't study that by taking out a molecule of water. In the wave, it's behavior is completely defined by the behavior of all the other molecules in the wave. Alone, it's just an infinitesimal speck, unwavable, as it were.

In poker, we speak of "metagame" - which is the total flow of your game, not the hand you are in, not the single opponent you are playing in that single minute, but all the players at the table, all the hands of the session and even sessions beyond and opponents yet-unplayed, who hear about your game. Metagame is the game. It's your personal poker wave, and like light or water, it has specific characteristics uniquely it's own. It's really the only game, and comprises all the other elements: the individual hands, the gestures and mannerisms, the culture of any particular group of players at a table. Who is in the session, the weather, whether you slept well the night before, whether your opponents did, it all flows together to make up the ebb and flow of your personal game, and each part affects the others and can change the shape of the wave.

What's this got to do with forums? When you post a hand on a forum, you take one particle, like one water molecule out of your game wave, and place it under a microscope. You might include an opponent read, like attaching an extra atom and making heavy water, but it's impossible to put your whole game into one post.

If that hand has a specific issue, like "should I have called this street? Folded, raised, what?" then you will get either a set of specific and generally similar answers, or a lively discussion with a variety of views. This is a good thing, especially the opposing views response, it can bring up ideas you'd been unaware of, possibilities before unthought of.

The danger here, is that you can decide on a course of action for that hand, and henceforth, play that type of hand the same way every time you have it. But that hand, or type of hand, will never appear again in exactly the same way. (BTW, this is why no one gets really good until they have played many many hands of poker, you simply must have the experience of the multitude of situations to begin to know how to make decisions.)

All of this can lead to a metaproblem: you begin to think there is a "right way" to play every hand, you easily start thinking of each hand as a singular event. If you do start to believe that, you might start posting all kinds of hands, looking for the right answer to each. When this happens to new or inexperienced players, they over react to variance: they have played correctly, how can they lose? This kind of tight focus play also blinds them to so many other aspects of the game, that they don't adapt to changing situations or even take into account how many other elements at the table are influencing the real game. This slows down the development of the person as player, all those sessions are not experienced fully, all the other information not integrated into the whole. Instead, they only have a collection of hands, of actions and results, out of context, unable to be used to build a personal winning style.

So forum posting is bad, right? Nonono! It's a good thing - especially for a new player until you do get all these hands under your belt. And having some basic plays, (like check/calling a river with the third nuts, say) is probably necessary to staying in the game and not going broke (or doing that more slowly) until enough experience can be gained. Until some future day when you know who you can bet that hand into and when you can even raise with it.

BUT - sometimes experts, aren't....

Forums tend to have a few high stakes players who commonly give advice to new players. And new players don't know any better and try to do what the obviously successful guys at nosebleed are telling them.

But these guys playing Razz at 10/20, 30/60 or higher are playing a decidedly different game than you are at .25/.50 or .50/1. I seriously doubt any one of these guys could beat micro if that was all they played for a few thousand hands, unless they gave up their high stakes game and adjusted to the poker culture around them. Here is a thread on my forum called When "Good" Razz is not Recommended that deals specifically with the issue of getting advice considered standard that might just be training a new Razzer to be a passive fish.

It's extremely difficult to beat microRazz, I was playing $10/20 on Stars while I was still a losing player at .25/.50 on Full Tilt.

Forums and advice (including mine) are where you go for ideas, information and feedback. Make no one, and everyone, your guru. The best way to learn to play, after all, is to play.

Play happy.

Lis-